Research

SKIRT

skirt is a tube- or cone-shaped garment that hangs from the waist or hips and covers all or part of the legs. The hemline of skirts can vary from micro to floor-length and can vary according to cultural conceptions of modestyand aesthetics as well as the wearer’s personal taste, which can be influenced by such factors as fashion and social context. Most skirts are self-standing garments, but some skirt-looking panels may be part of another garment such as leggingsshorts, and swimsuits.

In the western world, skirts are more commonly worn by women; with some exceptions such as the izaar which is worn by Muslim cultures and the kilt which is a traditional men’s garment in Scotland and Ireland. Some fashion designers, such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, have shown men’s skirts.

speakfashion_fashionhistory_classics_mensSkirt

Gaultiersignatureimage_428W
Paolo Roversi (Italian, b. 1947). Tanel Bedrossiantz, 1992. Digital print, 15 x 12 in. (38.3 x 30.8 cm). Jean Paul Gaultier’s “Barbès” women’s ready-to-wear fall-winter collection of 1984–85. © Paolo Roversi

 

The whirling dervishes and other cultures traditionally wear skirts.

At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of material (such as pareos), but most skirts are fitted to the body at the waist or hips and fuller below, with the fullness introduced by means of darts, gores, pleats, or panels. Modern skirts are usually made of light to mid-weight fabrics, such as denim, jersey, worsted, or poplin. Skirts of thin or clingy fabrics are often worn with slips to make the material of the skirt drape better and for modesty.

Names Of Skirts Styles

Skirts are of different styles, types and shapes. The design of each skirt determines its name. Skirts are worn to cover the lower part of the body. Some types of skirt are short or long. Skirts can be shaped and design in different ways, they can be made to be narrow, wide, or full skirt depending on how you want the skirt to look on you.

You can create skirts with pleats, gathers, tucks, overlaps and seams. You can sew skirts of any length. These are the different skirt lengths that you would like to know: Starting from the hip, skirt can be micro mini, mini, short, knee length, below the knee, upper calf, maxi, evening or floor length.

There are various kinds of women skirts. You can find flared skirts, pleated skirts, tailored skirts, flowing skirts that are made with lightweight fabrics which are suitable for evening frocks and women lingerie. The style of skirts differ from the types of skirts. The different styles of women skirts include flared skirt, circular skirt, gored skirts, gathered dirndl, pleated skirts and the rest.

How about for man ?

Outside of Western cultures, men’s clothing commonly includes skirts and skirt-like garments; however, in North America and much of Europe, the wearing of a skirt is today usually seen as typical for women and girls and not men and boys, the most notable exceptions being the cassock and the kilt. People have variously attempted to promote the wearing of skirts by men in Western culture and to do away with this gender distinction, albeit with limited general success[1] and considerable cultural resistance.[2]

There are a number of garments marketed to men which fall under the category of “skirt” or “dress.” These go by a variety of names and form part of the traditional dress for men from various cultures. Usage varies – the dhoti is part of everyday dress on the Indian subcontinent while the kilt is more usually restricted to occasional wear and the foustanella is used almost exclusively as costume. Robes, which are a type of dress for men, have existed in many cultures, including the Japanese kimono, the Chinese cheongsam, the Arabic thobe, and the African Senegalese kaftan. Robes are also used in some religious orders, such as the cassock in Christianity and various robes and cloaks that may be used in pagan rituals. Examples of men’s skirts and skirt like garments from various cultures include:

  • The kilt is a skirt of Gaelic and Celtic history, part of the Scottish national dress in particular, and is worn formally and to a lesser extent informally. Irish and Welsh kilts also exist but are not so much a part of national identity.
  • The foustanella is worn by men in Greece and other parts of the Balkans. By the mid-20th Century, it was relegated to ceremonial use and as period or traditional costume.
  • The gho is a knee-length robe worn by men in Bhutan. They are required to wear it every day as part of national dress in government offices, in schools and on formal occasions.[4]
  • The sarong is a piece of cloth that may be wrapped around the waist to form a skirt-like garment. Sarongs exist in various cultures under various names, including the pareo and lavalava of the Hawaiian islands and Polynesia (Samoa, Tonga, Tahiti, and Fiji), the Indian dhoti and lungi, and the South Indian and Maldivian mundu.

Aside from the wearing of kilts, in the Western world skirts, dresses and similar garments are considered primarily women’s clothing. Historically, however, this was not the case.[5] The wearing of skirts by men in Western cultures is generally seen as cross-dressingalthough some fashion designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Givenchy have produced skirts for men.

Types Of Skirt Styles Names For Women

Full Skirts

Full skirts are normally gathered or pleated. gathered skirts do not have structured folds. They only have fabric folds at the waist which has been pulled together. Pleated skirtsare stitched in such a way as to show fitting from the waist.

A-Line Skirts

The silhouette of the a-line skirts look like the letter A. You can find on each side of the hem that a-line skirt have extra width, this makes it look like an A when you view it from the front or back side.

Circular Skirts

Circular skirts are skirts that are flare at the hem. This type of skirt is made in a circular shape, so that in whatever way you hold and look at it, it forms a circle or half circle. Circular skirts are usually full near the hem or at hem end and very fitting at the dress hips. They drop or flared as a it is cut in circle and on the bias to produce the complete skirt.

Flared Skirts

With flared skirts, there are fullness all around the hem. You can notice some soft ripples that goes up toward the waist from the bottom when the skirt is worn. Flared skirts can also be called four gores, six gores, seven or eight gores. This is one of the easiest skirt that dressmakers can make. You can sew this skirt based on the blocks of the only the front and back skirt that you cut out..

Wrap Skirts

Wrap skirts wrap around the waist and leg part and overlap at any side you want. This type of skirt sometimes have a light flare design and you can fasten it with a button or tie.

Umbrella Skirts

Umbrella skirts have many gores or vertical seam lines. The gores are made to look narrow, but it can open as you move or walk, and when you stop moving, it closes like an umbrella.

Dirndle Skirt

Dirndl skirts are like gathered skirts but they gathers are not very full. Dirndl skirts usually have side seams pockets and the skirt looks straight when worn.Another name for dirndl skirt is gathered dirndl. This style of skirt has a wide waistband with gathered and it is a straight skirt.

Gored Skirts

With gored skirts have vertical seams or gores all the way to the hem from the waist. You can make four, six, seven or eight gores in a skirt. The gores should be wider at the hem and narrow at the hip line. Six gores can hug attractively to the hips and flares out at the hem line. six gored skirt is suitable to wear as a day or evening skirt.

Eight Gored Skirt

Eight gored skirt is another style of flared skirt that is very easy to make. You can make using the same steps as in six gored skirt. The only difference is that you use the hip and waist measurements as one eighth of the usual full size.

The Making Of Skirt Styles Tips

Many dresses that women wear have skirts attached to the bodice with a seam that is sewn to the waistline.To make a skirt to wear with any blouse, you will have to sew the skirt and then make a waistband that will hold the skirt at the top. Make a skirt waistline by sewing a band of fabric that can go around the waist and use fasteners such as hook and eye or button to close the skirt at the side, back or front.

Pleated Skirt For Women

Pleated skirt is a style of skirt that has been widely worn by many women. It is a straight skirt that is made by taking the width of the darts from each side seam and making the panel to look like pleats strips.

Gathered Skirts

Gathered skirts are skirts that is gathered at the waist and set into a band for it to look fitting to the hip. The gathered can also be cut from the hip side and set into a yoke. You can make gathered skirt by using the hip measurement about three times the width.

Question*so how you dress a lady/ person in something different of shapes/ conditions or environments to present their kinda moods/ identity or personalities ?

6116424_f1024

 

 

Sleeve

Sleeve (O. Eng. slieve, or slyf, a word allied to slip, cf. Dutch sloof) is the part of a garment that covers the arm, or through which the arm passes or slips. The pattern of the sleeve is one of the characteristics of fashion in dress, varying in every country and period. Various survivals of the early forms of sleeve are still found in the different types of academic or other robes. Where the long hanging sleeve is worn it has, as still in China and Japan, been used as a pocket, whence has come the phrase to have up one’s sleeve, to have something concealed ready to produce. There are many other proverbial and metaphorical expressions associated with the sleeve, such as to wear one’s heart upon one’s sleeve, and to laugh in one’s sleeve.

Sleeve length varies from barely over the shoulder (cap sleeve) to floor-length. Most contemporary shirt sleeves end somewhere between the mid-upper arm and the wrist.

Types of sleeves

Often the names applied to sleeves in historical costume are modern.

Type Brief description Image
Angel sleeve A long wide sleeve that usually hangs loose from the shoulder.
Batwing sleeve A long sleeve with a deep armhole, tapering towards the wrist. Also known as a “magyar” sleeve.
Bell sleeve A long sleeve fitted from the shoulder to elbow and gently flared from elbow onward.
Bishop sleeve A long sleeve, fuller at the bottom than the top, and gathered into a cuff Bishops sleeve.jpg
Butterfly sleeve Usually found on Filipiniana, the national costume for women of the Philippines and, dresses or formal blouses that start at the shoulder and get wider toward the end of the sleeve, but usually do not go longer than 4–5 inches. The difference between a butterfly sleeve and a Bell sleeve is that butterfly sleeves usually do not go completely around the full arm.[citation needed]
Cap sleeve A very short sleeve covering only the shoulder, not extending below armpit level.
Dolman sleeve A long sleeve that is very wide at the top and narrow at the wrist.
Gigot sleeve or leg o’mutton sleeve A sleeve that is extremely wide over the upper arm and narrow from the elbow to the wrist. Fig29NewWoman.png
Fitted point sleeve A sleeve that is long and narrow and ends in a point resting against the back of the hand.
Hanging sleeve A sleeve that opens down the side or front, or at the elbow, to allow the arm to pass through (14th15th16th17th centuries). Jan van Eyck 001 sleeve.jpg
Juliet sleeve A long, tight sleeve with a puff at the top, inspired by fashions of the Italian Renaissance and named after Shakespeare’s tragic heroine; popular from the Empire period through the 1820s in fashion, again in the late 1960s under the influence of Zeffirelli’s film Romeo and Juliet. Windswept.jpg
Kimono sleeve A sleeve cut in one with the bodice in a wide sloping shape, similar to that on traditional Chinese robes (not Japanese kimono whose sleeves are sewn separately).
Pagoda sleeve A wide, bell-shaped sleeve popular in the 1860s, worn over an engageante or false undersleeve. Giovanni Fattori 054.jpg
Paned sleeve A sleeve made in panes or panels, allowing a lining or shirt-sleeve to show through (16th and 17th centuries). Joana de Braganza.jpg
Poet sleeve A long sleeve fitted from shoulder to elbow, and then flared (somewhat dramatically) from elbow to wrist (or sometimes mid-hand). Often features ruffles on the cuffs. Poetblouse.jpg
Puffed or puff sleeve A short, ¾ length or full sleeve that is gathered at the top and bottom, now most often seen on wedding and children’s clothing. Vladimir Borovikovsky3.jpg
Raglan sleeve A sleeve that extends to the neckline Raglan sleeve.jpg
Set-in sleeve A sleeve sewn into an armhole (armscye). Set in sleeve blind stitched.jpg
Two-piece sleeve A sleeve cut in two pieces, inner and outer, to allow the sleeve to take a slight “L” shape to accommodate the natural bend at the elbow without wrinkling; used in tailored garments.
Virago sleeve A full “paned” or “pansied” sleeve gathered into two puffs by a ribbon or fabric band above the elbow, worn in the 1620s and 1630s. Anthonis van Dyck 021.jpg
1/4-length sleeve or quarter-length sleeve A sleeve that extends from the shoulder to mid-way down the biceps and triceps area.
3/4 length sleeve or three quarter length sleeve A sleeve that extends from the shoulder to a length mid-way between the elbow and the wrist. It was common in the United States in the 1950s and again 21st century.

9_1347252669436

Shirt

Charvet shirt from the 1930s, Norsk Folkemeuseum, Oslo.
A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body. Originally an undergarment worn exclusively by men, it has become, in American English, a catch-all term for almost any garment other than outerwear such as sweaters, coats, jackets, or undergarments such as bras, vests or base layers. In British English, a shirt is more specifically a garment with a collar, sleeves with cuffs and a full vertical opening with buttons or snaps. (North Americans would call that a “dress shirt”, a specific type of “collared shirt”). A shirt can also be worn with a necktie under the shirt collar.

History

The world’s oldest preserved garment, discovered by Flinders Petrie, is a “highly sophisticated” linen shirt from a First Dynasty Egyptian tomb at Tarkan, ca. 3000B.C. : “the shoulders and sleeves have been finely pleated to give form-fitting trimness while allowing the wearer room to move. The small fringe formed during weaving along one edge of the cloth has been placed by the designer to decorate the neck opening and side seam.”[1]

The shirt was an item of men’s underwear until the twentieth century.[2] Although the woman’s chemise was a closely related garment to the man’s,[3] it is the man’s garment that became the modern shirt. In the Middle Ages it was a plain, undyed garment worn next to the skin and under regular garments. In medieval artworks, the shirt is only visible (uncovered) on humble characters, such as shepherds, prisoners, and penitents.[4] In the seventeenth century men’s shirts were allowed to show, with much the same erotic import as visible underwear today.[5] In the eighteenth century, instead of underpants, men “relied on the long tails of shirts … to serve the function of drawers.[6] Eighteenth century costume historian Joseph Strutt believed that men who did not wear shirts to bed were indecent.[7] Even as late as 1879, a visible shirt with nothing over it was considered improper.[2]

The shirt sometimes had frills at the neck or cuffs. In the sixteenth century, men’s shirts often had embroidery, and sometimes frills or lace at the neck and cuffs,[8] and through the eighteenth century long neck frills, or jabots, were fashionable.[9] Coloured shirts began to appear in the early nineteenth century, as can be seen in the paintings of George Caleb Bingham. They were considered casual wear, for lower class workers only, until the twentieth century. For a gentleman, “to wear a sky-blue shirt was unthinkable in 1860 but had become standard by 1920 and, in 1980, constituted the most commonplace event.”[10]

European and American women began wearing shirts in 1860, when the Garibaldi shirt, a red shirt as worn by the freedom fighters under Giuseppe Garibaldi,[11] was popularized by Empress Eugénie of France.[12] At the end of the 19th century, the Century Dictionary described an ordinary shirt as “of cotton, with linen bosom, wristbands and cuffs prepared for stiffening with starch, the collar and wristbands being usually separate and adjustable”.

Types of shirt

Three types of shirts

  • Camp shirt – a loose, straight-cut, short sleeved shirt or blouse with a simple placket front-opening and a “camp collar.”
  • Dress shirt – shirt with a formal (somewhat stiff) collar, a full-length opening at the front from the collar to the hem (usually buttoned), and sleeves with cuffs
  • Dinner shirt – a shirt specifically made to be worn with male evening wear, e.g. a black tie or white tie.
  • guayabera – an embroidered dress shirt with four pockets.
  • Poet shirt – a loose-fitting shirt or blouse with full bishop sleeves, usually with large frills on the front and on the cuffs.
  • T-shirt – also “tee shirt”, a casual shirt without a collar or buttons, made of a stretchy, finely knit fabric, usually cotton, and usually short-sleeved. Originally worn under other shirts, it is now a common shirt for everyday wear in some countries.
  • Long-sleeved T-shirt – a t-shirt with long sleeves that extend to cover the arms.
  • Ringer T-shirt – tee with a separate piece of fabric sewn on as the collar and sleeve hems
  • Halfshirt – a high-hemmed t-shirt
  • A-shirt or vest or singlet (in British English) – essentially a sleeveless shirt with large armholes and a large neck hole, often worn by labourers or athletes for increased movability. Sometimes called a “wife beater” when worn without a covering layer.
  • camisole – woman’s undershirt with narrow straps, or a similar garment worn alone (often with bra). Also referred to as a cami, shelf top, spaghetti straps or strappy top
  • polo shirt (also tennis shirt or golf shirt) – a pullover soft collar short-sleeved shirt with an abbreviated button placket at the neck and a longer back than front (the “tennis tail”).
  • rugby shirt – a long-sleeved polo shirt, traditionally of rugged construction in thick cotton or wool, but often softer today
  • henley shirt – a collarless polo shirt
  • baseball shirt (jersey) — usually distinguished by a three quarters sleeve, team insignia, and flat waistseam
  • sweatshirt – long-sleeved athletic shirt of heavier material, with or without hood
  • tunic – primitive shirt, distinguished by two-piece construction. Initially a men’s garment, is normally seen in modern times being worn by women
  • shirtwaist – historically (circa. 1890-1920) a woman’s tailored shirt (also called a “tailored waist”) cut like a man’s dress shirt;[13] in contemporary usage, a woman’s dress cut like a men’s dress shirt to the waist, then extended into dress length at the bottom
  • nightshirt – often oversized, ruined or inexpensive light cloth undergarment shirt for sleeping.
  • sleeveless shirt – A shirt with no sleeves. Contains only neck, bottom hem, body, and sometimes shoulders depending on type. Also referred to as a tank top.
  • halter top – a shoulderless, sleeveless garment for women. It is mechanically analogous to an apron with a string around the back of the neck and across the lower back holding it in place.
  • Tops that would generally not be considered shirts:
  • onesie or diaper shirt — a shirt for infants which includes a long back that is wrapped between the legs and buttoned to the front of the shirt
  • sweaters — heavy knitted upper garments
  • jackets, coats and similar outerwear
  • tube top (in American English) or boob tube (in British English) — a shoulderless, sleeveless “tube” that wraps the torso not reaching higher than the armpit, staying in place by elasticity or by a single strap that is attached to the front of the tube

Parts of shirt

Many terms are used to describe and differentiate types of shirts (and upper-body garments in general) and their construction. The smallest differences may have significance to a cultural or occupational group. Recently, (late 20th century) it has become common to use tops to carry messages or advertising. Many of these distinctions apply to other upper-body garments, such as coats and sweaters.

Shoulders and arms

Sleeves

Main article: sleeves
Shirts may:

  • have no covering of the shoulders or arms — a tube top (not reaching higher than the armpits, staying in place by elasticity)
  • have only shoulder straps, such as spaghetti straps
  • cover the shoulders, but without sleeves
  • have shoulderless sleeves, short or long, with or without shoulder straps, that expose the shoulders, but cover the rest of the arm from the biceps and triceps down to at least the elbow
  • have short sleeves, varying from cap sleeves (covering only the shoulder and not extending below the armpit) to half sleeves (elbow length), with some having quarter-length sleeves (reaching to a point that covers half of the biceps and triceps area)
  • have three-quarter-length sleeves (reaching to a point between the elbow and the wrist)
  • have long sleeves (reaching a point to the wrist to a little beyond wrist)

Cuffs

Main article: cuff
Shirts with long sleeves may further be distinguished by the cuffs:

  • no buttons — a closed placket cuff
  • buttons (or analogous fasteners such as snaps) — single or multiple. A single button or pair aligned parallel with the cuff hem is considered a button cuff. Multiple buttons aligned perpendicular to the cuff hem, or parallel to the placket constitute a barrel cuff.
  • buttonholes designed for cufflinks
  • a French cuff, where the end half of the cuff is folded over the cuff itself and fastened with a cufflink. This type of cuff has four buttons and a short placket.
  • more formally, a link cuff — fastened like a French cuff, except is not folded over, but instead hemmed, at the edge of the sleeve.
  • asymmetrical designs, such as one-shoulder, one-sleeve or with sleeves of different lengths.

Lower hem of shirt

  • leaving the belly button area bare (much more common for women than for men). See halfshirt.
  • hanging to the waist
  • covering the crotch
  • covering part of the legs (essentially this is a dress; however, a piece of clothing is perceived either as a shirt (worn with trousers) or as a dress (in Western culture mainly worn by women)).
  • going to the floor (as a pajama shirt)

Body

  • vertical opening on the front side, all the way down, with buttons or zipper. When fastened with buttons, this opening is often called the placket front.
  • similar opening, but in back.
  • left and right front side not separable, put on over the head; with regard to upper front side opening:
  • V-shaped permanent opening on the top of the front side
  • no opening at the upper front side
  • vertical opening on the upper front side with buttons or zipper
  • men’s shirts are often buttoned on the right whereas women’s are often buttoned on the left.

Neck

  • with polo-neck
  • with v-neck but no collar
  • with plunging neck
  • with open or tassel neck
  • with collar
  • windsor collar or spread collar — a dressier collar designed with a wide distance between points (the spread) to accommodate the windsor knot tie. The standard business collar.
  • tab collar ~ a collar with two small fabric tabs that fasten together behind a tie to maintain collar spread.
  • wing collar ~ best suited for the bow tie, often only worn for very formal occasions.
  • straight collar ~ or point collar, a version of the windsor collar that is distinguished by a narrower spread to better accommodate the four-in-hand knot, pratt knot, and the half-windsor knot. A moderate dress collar.
  • button-down collar ~ A collar with buttons that fasten the points or tips to a shirt. The most casual of collars worn with a tie.
  • band collar ~ essentially the lower part of a normal collar, first used as the original collar to which a separate collarpiece was attached. Rarely seen in modern fashion. Also casual.
  • turtle neck collar ~ A collar that covers most of the throat.
  • without collar
  • v-neck no collar;~ The neckline protrudes down the chest and to a point, creating a “V” looking neck line.
  • Other features
  • pockets — how many (if any), where, and with regard to closure: not closable, just a flap, or with a button or zipper.
  • with or without hood
  • Some combinations are not applicable, of course, e.g. a tube top cannot have a collar.

Types of shirting fabric

There are two main categories of fibres used: natural fibre and man-made fibre (synthetics or petroleum based). Some natural fibres are linen, the first used historically, cotton, the most used, ramie, wool, silk and more recently bamboo or soya. Some synthetic fibres are polyester, tencel, viscose, etc. Polyester mixed with cotton (poly-cotton) is often used. Fabrics for shirts are called shirtings. The four main weaves for shirtings are plain weave, oxford, twill and satin. Broadcloth, poplin and end-on-end are variations of the plain weave. After weaving, finishing can be applied to the fabric.

Shirts and politics

See also: Political colour
In the 1920s and 1930s, fascists wore different coloured shirts:

  • Black shirts were used by the Italian fascio, and in Britain, Finland and Germany and Croatia.
  • Brownshirts were worn by German nazis of the SA.
  • The Blueshirts was a fascist movement in Ireland and Canada, and the colour of the Spanish Falange Española, the French Solidarité Française, and the Chinese Blue Shirts Society.
  • Green shirts were used in Hungary, Ireland, Romania and Brazil.
  • Camisas Doradas (golden shirts) were used in Mexico.
  • Silver Shirts were worn in the United States of America.
  • In addition, redshirts have been used to symbolize a variety of different political groups, including Garibaldi’s Italian revolutionaries, 19th century American street gangs, and socialist militias in Spain and Mexico during the 1930s.
  • In the UK, the Social Credit movement of the thirties wore green shirts.

COLORS, LIKE FEATURES, FOLLOW THE CHANGES OF THE EMOTIONS. – PABLO PICASSO

Beige | Black | Blue (plusazure | beryl | cerulean |cobalt | corporate blue |indigo | navy | sapphire) |Brown | Gold | Gray |Green (plus chartreuse) |Ivory | Lavender | Orange | Pink (plus fuchsia) |Purple (plus lilac | plum | violet) | Red (plus blood red |crimson | scarlet | vermilion) | Silver | Turquoise |White | Yellow

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s